In the old town of Qin Tong (溱潼), one entry ticket takes you in and out of quiet courtyards, dim timber rooms and grey brick lanes. You look at a collection of ancient stone wells and tablets in a courtyard outside; a catalogue of bricks used through the different dynasties inside; an old sacred tree adorned with wishful red banners in another courtyard outside; musty carved beds and cupboards made of time-smoothened dark woods inside. After a while your body and mind become confused about the discreteness of where what and when, like a necklace of assorted baubles both bright and livid. But be warned: such age-old delights will disappear with the babbling pedantry of an overly enthusiastic tour-guide offering to bind words to eyes.