at the shenzhen hong kong biennale, chief curator ou ning purportedly chose the shenzhen civic center as the main venue so as to bring people back to the usually empty inhumanly-scaled large open spaces around it. his vision for a new public liveliness (‘couldn’t street life be moved here as well?’), if only for the short duration of the biennale, is this: ‘the following scene appears in my mind: people surging through a square filled with merchants, foodsellers, newspaper hawkers, vendors of clothing and other goods…’

bangkok doesn’t have a biennale yet. but why do they need one when what they have is more lively, less orchestrated, more spontaneous, more sabai, not for city-branding but truly for the people?

every year, on 5 december they hold a mass celebration for their beloved king’s birthday. this year, we managed to join in the festivities which lasted for three days. for the first time, they closed the city’s main boulevard, ratchdamnoen klang, to commemorate His Majesty The King’s 82nd birthday. throngs of people strolled down the long avenue; hawkers with their wares; picture pavilions set up by ministries lined both sides of the pavements; sporadic quiz shows and games over makeshift tables to entertain the crowd; handmade floats filled with colours and lights and moving water wheels; groups gathered around fountains and small street concerts; the centerpiece of the boulevard, the monument for democracy became a temporary stage for colorful performers and politicians. here, there, and everywhere, uncoordinated fireworks explode iridescent in the night sky.

at the end of the avenue at the palace the King would greet and wave to the crowds from his balcony every year. this year however, he was unable to because of his poor health. so they screened a documentary about his life and work instead. there were free seats for anyone, no ushers, no passes needed. motorcyclists packed the back rows. and when the documentary ended, the King’s Anthem was played, every one, all those sitting down, all those strolling, all those taking photos, all those selling food, all those shouting over microphones, every single one stood still, without being cued. at that moment, you could sense deeply the spirit of this city.